★ Key Takeaways
- ✓Fall is model-year changeover. Dealers want the outgoing year off the lot, so the best leftover deal is often at a dealership a few states away, not the one down the road.
- ✓Get the out-the-door price in writing before you sign anything, and ask whether that price includes the dealer delivering the car or assumes you arrange the shipping.
- ✓Sales tax and registration usually follow the state where you will register the car, not the state you buy it in. Ask the dealer how they handle out-of-state buyers, then confirm with your own DMV.
- ✓Pickup from a dealership has its own rules: business hours, a named contact, a release from the sales office, and a written deadline before any storage fee starts.
- ✓Book shipping in October with the calendar in mind: in our published formula, October runs about 15% higher on southbound corridors and about 5% lower northbound.
Every fall the same thing happens on dealer lots across the country. The new model year arrives, the trucks unload the 2027s, and the 2026s that did not sell over the summer suddenly become a problem for the dealer. They take up space, they cost money to finance while they sit, and they get harder to sell every week the calendar moves. That is why late September through the end of the year is when leftover new cars get priced to move -- and why, more often than people expect, the best deal on the exact trim and color you want is at a dealership a few states away.
We have been shipping cars since 1999, and model-year closeout is one of the moves we see people get right and wrong in almost equal measure. Getting it right is not complicated. It just means doing a few things in the right order, most of them before you sign.
| Where it goes wrong | What to do instead |
|---|---|
| A great sticker price, then add-ons at signing | Get a written out-the-door price by email before you commit to the car |
| "We'll deliver it" with no price or date attached | Ask for the delivery fee and date in writing, then compare it to a shipping estimate |
| Sales tax collected for the wrong state | Ask how they handle your state's tax, and confirm with your DMV before you pay |
| The car sits after the sale and storage fees start | Get the free-storage window in writing and book shipping the day you sign |
| The driver arrives and nobody at the dealership knows about it | Name one contact, confirm the hours, and have the sales office issue the vehicle release |
| Damage or extra miles noticed a week after delivery | Record the odometer and photograph the car at pickup, and inspect before you sign the delivery receipt |
Start with the price, and make it the whole price. An out-of-state dealer can quote you a sticker price over the phone that looks thousands better than your local store, and then add documentation fees, dealer add-ons, and a delivery charge once you are committed. Ask for the out-the-door number by email: vehicle price, every fee, taxes if they are collecting them, and whether that total includes getting the car to you. A dealer who wants to sell a leftover to someone 800 miles away is usually happy to put it in writing. One who will not is telling you something.
“The deal is not done when you sign. It is done when the car is in your driveway with the same miles it had on the lot and no fee you did not agree to.”
Next, sort out who is moving the car. Some dealers offer delivery and roll it into the price. Some quote it as a separate line. Many simply expect you to pick it up. Any of those can be fine -- what matters is that you know which one you are buying. If the dealer quotes delivery, ask what it costs and when it will arrive, and hold that number up against a shipping estimate for the same route. If you are arranging it yourself, we put your shipment in front of vetted, licensed auto transport companies, they compete with their best offers, and you choose the one you book with. Either way, you should be comparing real numbers, not taking the first one offered.
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Get My Free Quote →Taxes and registration are where out-of-state purchases get people. In most states, sales tax is owed where you register the car, not where you buy it, and dealers handle this differently: some collect your home state's tax and send the paperwork on, some collect nothing and leave it to you, and some collect their own state's tax, which you then have to sort out at home. None of that is a reason not to buy out of state. It is a reason to ask the dealer exactly how they handle buyers from your state, and to call your own DMV before you pay, so you know what you will owe and what paperwork you need to register the car. If you are financing, the lender will hold the title, so ask how the title and registration paperwork will reach your state -- our post on shipping a financed or leased car covers the lienholder side.
Then plan the pickup, because a dealership is not a driveway. Car carriers work on schedules, dealerships keep business hours, and the two do not always line up. Give the transport company one named contact at the dealership with a direct number, confirm the lot's hours and any loading restrictions, and make sure the sales office has issued whatever release or gate pass the lot requires. Ask the dealer, in writing, how many days the car can sit after the sale before storage fees start. Book shipping the day you sign, not the day the dealer calls asking when it is leaving.
Timing matters in October in a way it does not in September. Snowbird traffic starts running south this month, and on those corridors the southbound direction pays a premium while northbound trucks are looking to fill their trailers. Our published estimate formula carries that pattern: October runs about 15% higher on southbound routes and about 5% lower northbound, and December is the quietest month of the year. If your leftover deal is north of you, you may be on the cheap side of the calendar. If it is south of you, book early and give the carrier a wider pickup window. Every route page on the site shows the twelve-month version of its estimate, so you can see what the month does to your specific move.
Open or enclosed? For most new cars, open transport is the normal way to go -- it is how new vehicles move from the factory to dealers in the first place. Enclosed makes sense for high-end, low-slung, or collectible cars, or if you simply want the car covered for a long winter trip, and it costs more because an enclosed trailer carries fewer cars. Our estimate pages show both side by side.
Last, protect the thing you just bought. A new car should arrive with essentially the miles it had on the lot. At pickup, the driver will inspect the car and note its condition on the bill of lading. Make sure the odometer reading is on it, and have the dealership contact photograph the car from every side before it is loaded. At delivery, walk around the car before you sign the delivery receipt, compare it to those photos, and write down anything new on the receipt itself -- our delivery-day inspection guide walks through exactly how.
Model-year closeout is one of the few times of year when being flexible about where you buy genuinely pays. Get the whole price in writing, know who is moving the car, settle the tax question before you pay, and book the shipping the day you sign. Get your free estimate, compare the offers that come back, and choose the company you book with -- we stay with you until the car is home.
About the Author
American Auto Shipping
Dave Armstrong is one of American Auto Shipping's longest-tenured team members. As content manager and strategist, most of what you read on this website came from him. He has extensive knowledge of the auto transport industry, having spent time in every role the business has to offer.




